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Don’t fall behind the leader. The bus will leave shortly”. If these words were what you remember from your last vacation and you said to yourself, “If I only had more time to enjoy this place and the people,” this alternative approach to vacationing might be for you.
It will be assumed you have already taken a pre-packaged tour of Italy. A planned tour where every thing is planned and supervised is the most cost effective and efficient way to tour Italy for the first time. If this is your first trip to Italy, my alternative may not be for you.
I shall be discussing Northern Italy where I just spent a glorious month. With slight modifications what I discuss could occur in many other locales around the world.
To get the most enjoyment from this type of trip the following recommendations are helpful although not essential. However, if you find that most of these suggestions are impossible for your lifestyle, then a different type of vacation would be suggested.
Physically Fit
I found very few provisions for the disabled, which we take for granted in the US. How fit must you be? Before you couch potatoes consider taking this type of vacation, walking ability is essential. Not speed but endurance.
Converting this to treadmill numbers you should be able to walk 3 miles in 1 hour and walk on an incline of 20 – 45 degrees for at least ½ hour. Visiting small mountain top towns requires climbing steep inclines while leaving your car parked outside of the walls of these old towns at the bottom of the hill.In addition climbing 4 stories daily carrying packages will get you used to carrying your own luggage up the stairs of your romantic 16th century villa. Leonardo di Vinci did not invent elevators.
A Knowledge of Italian
At least enough Italian to read road signs and menus will reduce anxiety. Familiarity with Italian numbers is also helpful, although the Italians graciously show you the cash register slip and take the Lira bills and the change from your hand honestly and with good humor. If Italian is impossible then Spanish or French can be of help. English is spoken in the tourist areas but this vacation will take you where the tourists go infrequently.
Dietary Restrictions
The Italians plan, discuss, shop and spend an enormous portion of each day around a dining table. Shopping in the markets will be an experience in food freshness and quality.
The fish is caught that day and the meats have flavor because there is some fat (a dirty word in the US diet) left on the meat. Eggs have the yellowest yolks ( yes the Italians eat the yolks as well as the egg whites) with the best flavor I have ever tasted. If your diet permits, without compromising your physical or psychological health, eat during your vacations like an Italian.
Forget about Low Calorie, Low Fat, Low Carbohydrates, sugar free, egg yolk free, and salt restricted, no red meat or a vegetarian diet. I guarantee good health, if you spend the 2-hour lunch and 2 hour dinner eating smaller quantities of the greatest varieties of the tastiest meats, fish and chicken; freshest fruits; vegetables; cheese; freshly prepared pasta made with eggs; the best olive oil and balsamic vinegar and most important local Italian wine and carbonated water with each meal.
Eat like the Italians in Northern Italy and you will not think of taking any of the US advertised upset stomach and indigestion remedies during your entire stay.
If you walk enough and climb stairs like the locals, you will not gain weight during your vacation. Northern Italian men and women whom I noticed walking in the streets, are far thinner than their American counterparts who drive rather than walk and then snack on junk food at the mall.
Time
This vacation cannot be accomplished in a short period of time. I took 1 month but there is nothing written that you cannot do it in 3 weeks. You must leave enough time to get over the jet lag that is inevitable unless you are a sound sleeper on airplanes.
The best time to visit Tuscany and the Veneto area of Italy is April 15 to May 31 and September 15 to October 31. You avoid vacationing tourists and the temperature is perfect. A word of caution. In May, Italian schoolchildren visit the various tourist sites as well as do the Italian tourists on weekends. To avoid crowds visit the Art Galleries and major churches early before the tour buses arrive.
In addition it takes time to get into the rhythm of the Italian life style of the smaller cities and towns. Stores open at 7:30 am and close for lunch at 12:30 PM and reopen at 4: 00 PM and close at 7:30 PM. The eating places are the only establishments that you will find open during these afternoon hours. At 8:00PM the eating places become busy. You will find yourself dining alone (unless there are some stray Americans) at 7:00PM.
So leave your idea of the “early bird special” back in the US. Dinner does not end until 10PM and many nights it is bedtime by 11:00 PM. Going to bed on a full stomach has no ill effect. Amazing!!
Notice I have not yet discussed one work of art or religious site to visit. There are travel guides for that. This article will offer a different type of tour.
Money
Private or Villa housing will be far less expensive than staying in equivalent hotels. You will be shopping locally and eating at home more than if you were at a hotel. However, you need an adequate amount of money as a reserve since you will eat out at least one meal per day. Because of the strong dollar full meals with wine at the fine local (non-tourist) restaurants will be under $30 for two all-inclusive.
You need the extra money for the incredible values when you purchase Italian products in Italy. You will not be able to resist purchasing the fine products such as Olive Oil, Aged Balsamic Vinegar, Porcini Mushrooms, Linens, Tableware and Glassware, if you enjoy entertaining at home with dinner parties. Home furnishings, clothing and leather goods are a must if you are a shopper.
Take a small amount of cash with you and the absolute minimum amount of Travelers Checks. You are charged for the exchange from traveler’s checks to Lira and will get a poor exchange rate. Instead use your ATM card. There are International Bankomats in every larger city and airports that will give you up to 500,000 Lira, that is slightly under $250 at today's exchange rate. The larger shops and restaurants accept credit cards. You will need Lira for the smaller shops and local eateries. Just be certain to leave a solid balance in the account that supplies your ATM card. You will need it.
Inner Resources
Renting an Apartment in a city or a Villa in the country comes with minimum entertainment. A TV and an antiquated sound system may be supplied. The programs are in Italian except if there is a satellite dish or cable in which case you may get CNN international. I
f you enjoy old reruns of sitcoms or watching inane quiz shows in Italian, then you will be happy with Italian TV. If not bring lots of books to read. If you run out of reading material it is difficult to get English books or newspapers in the local bookstores. Reading at night also proves to be difficult for us presbyopes who require a strong light source. Old structures are usually not well wired and with high-energy costs, lighting is not a top priority. The “Itty-bitty booklight” with batteries may be a good alternative.
A word about the cost of Italian Energy. It is very expensive so Italians have learned how to conserve. Before our political leaders begin an environmentally questionable approach they should visit Italy and live like a middle class Italian. Italians, for decades, have had to cope with high-energy costs that would create an enormous outcry in the US. If Americans could copy, in even a small measure, how the Italians coped to compensate for the high cost of energy there would be no perceived “Energy Crisis”.
Let the US policy makers move into a middle class apartment in any Northern Italian City and not into a 5 star hotel and being driven about in large limousines like a celebrities. This is what they will learn:
1.European automobiles are small and fuel-efficient. We had a real energy crisis in the 1970s, that our seniordocs will recall. Remember those long lines to get gas and the enormous increase in the energy prices leading to massive inflation? Automobiles in less than a decade became smaller and fuel-efficient.
I went from driving a Thunderbird at 8 miles to a gallon to a Toyota getting 25 miles to a gallon. If the politicians had the political will and courage, they would give a fuel tax credit for efficient new hybrid autos and place a heavy tax on large cars and pleasure boats that consume more than their fair share of gasoline. This tax would be reserved for research on safe renewable alternative energy sources such as wind and solar energy and serious investment in Public Transportation.
2. The Italian cities I visited and I’m certain it is true around Europe, have a clean, efficient and safe public transportation system. Subsidies are given so that fares are low enough that it makes sense to leave your car home. The trains and buses arrive frequently so there are no inconvenient scheduling problems.
3. Italians set their thermostats for cooler house temperatures in the winter and warmer temperatures in the summer, than we are used to in the US. Remember during the 1970s energy crisis President Jimmie Carter wearing a cardigan due to cooler temperatures being maintained at the White House during the winter months, as an example to encourage fuel conservation? It became the right thing to do.
4. Hot water is a luxury for the middle class Italian. Short showers are a must or else it is a cold shower. This was true in every home I rented in both Apartments and Villas. I must therefore assume, it is true for most middle class Italians, as a fact of “energy conservation” life to use hot water sparingly.
5.Italian property owners place timers on lights in public hallways and bathroom facilities that automatically shut off after a short amount of time. I would love to see one of our slow moving, political decision makers on a fact finding tour, getting stuck in the “Bagno” when the lights go out and no idea where the switch is located to turn it back on.
As long as we are on the subject of bathrooms, in Italy bathrooms are works of art…. No two are alike. When entering you are well advised to do a rapid survey of how the present one varies and most important of all, the light switch location if your time is up. The Northern Italian Bathrooms as with all shops and restaurants are immaculate. Every thing sparkles but you are well advised to bring your own supplies since the Public Facilities sometimes lack these essentials.
If all the above disclaimers have not discouraged you, it is time to begin my holiday description.
Florence
I took an overnight Air France flight, Miami to Paris connecting to Florence. It was an excellent flight where because of the added comfort of Business class, I was able to get several hours of uninterrupted sleep. If your finances or frequent flyer miles can afford it, upgrade from economy.
You will avoid long check in lines, have a comfortable lounge with refreshments to await your departure. On board food is edible but most important the seats allow you to rest comfortably. No guarantee, but the cabin might be quieter because the crying children are usually flying economy. I love kids but not on airplanes. (I hope my daughter who flies with my grandchildren doesn’t read this).
My wife Carol, who together with two old friends, with whom we shared the Apartment and Villas arranged the entire month, met me in Florence. In the interest of full disclosure I have a confession.
I was not involved in any of the planning or housing arrangements. Prior to my wife leaving for Florence two weeks ahead of me she handed me my airline tickets and passport and said “I’ll meet you in Florence in two weeks”.
Carol loves Italy. She studied design in Milan during her college years. As a result she is almost fluent in Italian. She took off two weeks ahead of me to take an Art and Florentine-cooking course. After many years of marriage, she understands my time limit visiting an Art Museum or Religious Site is two hours. About the same as sitting in a C/E course. As a result, she went ahead to view the incredible art of Florence without worrying about my interest level. I take courses to better understand Art and Art History but I have a hard time. Classical music is much easier for me.
When Carol suggested a long holiday in Italy last year, my immediate reaction was negative. I have spent a good portion of my career in Optometry doing C/E in some very isolated places. I always suspected the other speakers got the cities easier to reach. The thought of flying that involves delays and sitting in terminals did not excite me.
She was insistent, indicating I now have the time and she is willing to take six weeks off from an extremely active interior design practice to take this trip, while we are both in great physical shape. She even told the South Florida Chapter of the American Society for Interior Design, where she is now past president, that the organization will have to do with out her. She exclaimed to my daughter, Erika who was going into her eighth month of pregnancy when she left, “Don’t you dare give birth until I return”.
She was so excited about having a leisurely trip, I could not say no. Our last trip to Florence in October 1998 was quite hectic. My daughter announced that she was getting married and did not want an elaborate wedding, so she could save me money. How would she accomplish this? Get married in Italy since Carol and I would be there so it could be accomplished with minimum of fanfare.
This money saving, minimum fanfare wedding was not as simple as we thought. They were married in a formal ceremony in the town City Hall of Florence, which is the Palazzo Vecchio, a magnificent palace in the grandest Salon I have ever seen, by the Mayor of Florence. The whole story requires another article. Save me money…. Ha!
In any event we decided this vacation would not be rushed or interrupted hence her decision to which I agreed to rent Apartments and Villas.
Every thing was arranged through two websites, http://www.theparkercompany.com and http://www.travel-italy.com .You may get more information about apartments and villas through these agencies. The entire trip was made without the assistance of travel agents.
The taxi took us to our apartment building in the Old Part of Florence. We went into a dark hallway in a very old building. She found the light switch and led me to a tiny elevator with enough room for one valise and me. We had the 5th floor apartment. The elevator only went up the 4th floor so I had to drag this heavy valise an additional floor. Because of extremely high ceilings in old buildings, a floor is equal to a floor and a half. Remember my comment about being in shape. A wonderful view of the city from a terrace where we sat and watched the sunset over the city made the effort worthwhile. To see the sights and hear the church bells chiming simultaneously are a special memory.
To enjoy the art treasures of Florence you must go early and purchase tickets in advance. For information, E-mail Carlotta @ pazzagli.com or the web site http://www.initaly.com.
Our friend Carol took care of this and it was really worth the effort. We walked to the front of a 2-block line at the Accademia at 9 am The cassette walking tour of the Accademia, where the David and some of the other works of Michelangelo are housed, is a help to appreciate and understand his genius. These cassette guides where available in English, are an important compliment to the guidebooks that are a must to keep you on track.
To really get the most out of the art of Florence, my wife hired an American who married a local and has a Ph.D. in Renaissance Art History. She gave us a marvelous three-hour seminar and tour that brought the art to life. I even understood every thing she said without getting bored. To reach Dr.Margaret Ann Zaho her E mail is emzaho@hotmail.com.
Another highlight was the visit to the market in Florence and sampling the wonderful foods of Italy. This requires some language skill since the market is meant for Florentines and the trades people are less patient with curiosity seekers. As a general rule, don’t handle the produce- the vendor will invite you to do so and will let you taste a sample if you are ready to make a purchase.
If you wish to send the marvelous olive oil, aged balsamic vinegar or porcini mushrooms home, they will be packed and the mushrooms vacuumed sealed to get through US customs. The merchants will take the time to give you all necessary information. Most merchants, who sell these pricier products in the market will ship the products home for you at a very reasonable price, compared to what these products, if they were available, would cost in the US. Memories fade but the flavor of the foods that arrive from Italy, on your return will bring you back to your holiday for an extended period of time
If you are uncomfortable going to the Market yourself, a one-day cooking course is available where you be taken shopping for food to prepare as part of the course. An American who married a Florentine offers it. Her web site http://www.divinacucina.com.
After Market shopping it is time for lunch. Diagonally opposite the market there is Trattoria Mario’s. Arrive before 12 noon or there will be a line out the door.
Only Italian is spoken and you may be asked to share a table- it’s the norm here. If you cannot easily communicate, just sit back and let them feed you with their fresh specials of the day. It will be Florentine cuisine and some of the best food you have ever tasted at the lowest price you can imagine.
We met people from Bologna who make it a special stop when they are in Florence. Don’t miss it!
Most Trattorias are excellent and well priced. If you want a pricier place for one night of typical excellent Florentine dining, try Osteria Numero Uno. Sorry no address.
A novel to read about a woman coming of age in Florence that will give you the feel of the city is “The Sixteen Pleasures“ by Robert Helenga, Dell Publishing. It will also discuss the great flood of 1966 where much of Florence was underwater and the treasures were at risk. That is another interesting story beyond the scope of this article.
For more information about Florence the most useful guidebook can be found at www.dk.com . This is part of the Eyewitness series of guidebooks.
Time to meet our travelling companions.
We met Carol and Bernie at Florence Airport after a flight from New York to Paris connecting to Florence. There is an increased likelihood that luggage can be delayed with a connecting flight. For this reason, not only should you carry valuables and essentials on board but when packing, cross pack in each other’s suitcase. In the event one is delayed you have a change of clothing until your luggage catches up. One of their suitcases was delayed.
Spending weeks with another couple is quite different than an occasional social evening. You should know them very well. The two Carols were friends since grade school and I have known Bernie for about 40 years. We understood one another’s idiosyncrasies.
I know I can be quite annoying to individuals who are slow morning starters. I am an extremely early riser. This is not a problem at home since I have things to occupy me until the rest of world wakes up. On the other hand my body begins shutting down by 8PM and I become as quiet as an undiscovered tomb by 10PM. The night owls are ready for activities and I am ready to go to sleep. There is a reason my wife calls me “Mr.Excitement”.
Since social life begins at 8PM in Italy, I had no choice but to take an afternoon nap. If Bernie and Carol wanted to sleep later, we went our separate ways until we could meet up at mutually convenient times. We were fortunate that Bernie could get by in Italian since he was translator by profession specializing in Spanish and French. His wife, Carol understood some Italian since her mother’s mother spoke to her in Italian as a child. One of her goals on this trip was to meet her cousins on her grandmother’s side for the very first time. More about that later.
Cortona in Tuscany
We collected the delayed luggage at the airport and proceeded to pick up our car rental. We requested a single large car to hold our entire luggage and the four of us. The Mercedes wagon we were promised did not materialize so we had what at best would be considered a mid size by US standards.
We could barely squeeze in our belongings but with map in hand; we were on our way to Cortona, less than two hours away if you don’t get lost. But getting lost is easy. Road signs are far smaller than in the US. Italian drivers have little patience for people who seem to be wandering and specialize in tailgating which causes you to increase speed and miss the turn off, because the sign was too small to give you enough time to maneuver.
There are remarkably few accidents, when compared to our rate of accidents in Florida. I saw few elderly drivers on the road. Perhaps that accounts for the lower than expected accident rate for aggressive drivers.
We arrived late in the afternoon. Up a long driveway to a large 16th century Villa. It was exactly as you would expect a Villa of that era to appear. Resting on top the hill it overlooked a magnificent valley of Tuscany.
The present owner, who was the heir to the estate, divided the Villa up into several apartments. The family dates back to the 15th century and is one if the leading families of Cortona. Unfortunately, the economics involved in maintaining the property obliged the owner to make the house income producing. Since Tuscany is one of the most popular spots in Italy, renting for the season is fairly simple.
We occupied the 3rd and 4th floor. Because of the ceiling height, it is more like the 5th and 6th floor. There was no one to help with luggage. At last my weight training at Gold’s Gym was going to pay off. But lifting weights in a gym is not like dragging heavy suitcases up the steps .
We survived and after inspecting the residence it was evident the people in the 16th century were not as concerned about bathrooms and up to date kitchens. We made do and shopped in town for supplies.
Dinner that night consisted of hor d’oeuvres and lots of wine while in our upper floor living room watching the sun set over our beautiful Tuscan Valley.
A stay in Tuscany will allow you to visit lovely mountain top towns including Cortona, San Gimignano, and Assisi. These towns are favorite tourist sites and should be visited early before the buses arrive and you move out into a quiet Trattoria by 12:30PM.
A worthwhile out of the way trip is to the Chianti Region. Route S 408 from Siena takes you to various vineyards. Explore, get lost and you will come across Montecino. A small village with a winery and that has been inhabited in the same houses for over 1000 years.
If the local Tratteria is closed it is a short trip to Grieve which has a lovely square and several fine places to take your mid day meal. When purchasing Chianti to take back to your Villa look for the Black Rooster on the neck of the bottle. It is a sign of quality and all years since 1992 have been good but 1997 was outstanding. Look for it. It is inexpensive, under $10 a bottle, in the Chianti Region.
If you run short of time avoid Perugia but do not miss Deruta where Majolica, artistic earthenware is produced. There are many shops and few tourists and you can purchase magnificent dishes and kitchenware at a fraction of the cost back in the US. Sorry to report no web site or E-mail address. Time to move on to Venice.
Venice
Venice has no cars. Did you ever wonder what you do with your rented car and how on earth you will get your luggage to the apartment? We thought about it too as we pulled our car back into the outside perimeter of Venice to the Hertz Rental. We could not ask Hertz, because the rental agency was closed and we were instructed to leave the key.
At the entrance to the garage, we found porters who took our luggage and up to 2 passengers on a freight boat up the Grand Canal to our stop. If no porters are available you can carry your luggage to a nearby water Taxi who will drop you off fairly near your home.
Our duplex apartment was one block off the Grand Canal located in a lovely square. The Agent was waiting for us as arranged, but did not speak a word of English. If we did not an Italian speaker with us, we would have been in deep trouble. I suppose she could have shown us around and used sign language.
The apartment was located in a very old building that was totally redone. A stark contrast to our villa where everything was primitive, this apartment had beautiful furnishings, modern kitchen and quality just like home. There was air-conditioning if needed as well as enough electric lights so that reading at night was a possibility. Whatever the electric and gas bill came to it was worth it.
For those who have never visited Venice, the city is magical and it is my wife’s favorite place to visit. You get around by foot or the public boat transportation called a Vaporetto. A weekly ticket is just a few dollars and this boat takes you to every part of Venice and the outer islands. Of course you must transfer and understand the system but the ticket and boat people are very helpful.
The worse thing that can happen is you will get lost and end up having an interesting boat ride around Venice. For special trips to the airport, if you wish to splurge you can take private water Taxi. A romantic gondola ride into the smaller canals is something you should experience. This is best done at night when the day tourists have vanished and the Grand Canal is calm. Expensive but how often are you in Venice?
The first night we decided to go out to dinner. The moon was full, the evening air balmy. We selected a restaurant near our apartment along the Grand Canal. There were four of us so we could not sit directly by the Canal. That was reserved for the romantic parties of two.
I looked at these hopefuls. A young couple finds waiting for that spark ready to ignite. A little more Champagne and a moon rising higher and the explosion. A middle aged couple trying to keep the embers burning and hoping Venice, the Grand Canal and a full moon would be the added needed fuel. And finally an older couple hoping the last cooling embers in their relationship could be reignited by this magical city. All was in place as the tide rose slowly and eventually these couples were ankles deep in water. Through it all they never seemed to notice. That’s Venetian romance.
The next day we took a walk over to the market. Venetian cuisine is top heavy with seafood. For you fish haters give it a second chance. The Fish Market is about 3 blocks square. The fish were caught that morning and remarkably there is no fish smell in the entire market. Some of the fish from the Adriatic look scary but oh the taste!
As long as we are on my favorite subject food, look for small Trattorias away from the Grand Canal. The tourist eateries with menus in English, French and German are overpriced. The out of the way Trattorias will be reasonable but more expensive than in those in the countryside.
Housing in the Grand Hotels such as the Cipriani or Danielle are way out of line for what you receive. Renting an apartment for a week with another couple is the way to go. The money saved in housing can be spent on the products Venice has to offer.
Treat yourself to one night of the best dining anywhere in the world (“Food and Wine” voted them one of the 10 best) and not incredibly expensive for what you receive, (dinner for 2 with wine $100). The Restaurant is called Da Fiore FAX 041 721343. Reservations are limited so call months in advance to assure a table. There is only one seating a night so the table is yours. Watching the waiters work is like viewing a Ballet. It is well worth the visit and the seafood is unforgettable.
A visit to San Marco and the Doge’s Palace are a must but an early arrival is essential because the crowds even during the off season are overbearing. Get more information from your guidebooks. As mentioned before the best single book to carry, is found at http://www.dk.com.
A wonderful one-day trip using your pre-purchased Vaporetti tickets is a 90-minute boat ride to Torcello that leaves from the San Marco stop among other places. Leave by 10 am and arrrive in Torcello by 11:30 am and tour the 5th – 6th Century church, Santa Fosco which has unusual Byzantine mosaics and some archeological sites dating back to the Romans and Attila the Hun.
A lunch in the garden of Osteria Ponte Del Diavolo is a memorable experience. Dine at your new found leisurely pace but be aware of the boat schedule because this larger boat runs less frequently.
Take the boat back to nearby Burano and treat yourself to some of the most beautiful lace handwork in the world. At the prices offered, you will buy tablecloths and napkins that will be the pride of your dinner table. Don’t miss this out of the way treasure. Because it appeals to tourism, the shops do not close, for the most part,between 12:30 and 4 PM. You can be assured the convenience of open shops after your wonderful lunch.
If time permits after Burano, you may have time to stop off at Murano to view and purchase the world famous Venetian glass and crystal. If you are a serious purchaser, then I suggest another ½ day devoted to this pleasurable experience. Murano is a 15-minute boat ride from San Marco stop.
Murano is more crowded with tourist oriented establishments, so it takes some effort to separate the quality from the ordinary. The place we purchased crystal is called Lineamazzuocato. The owner speaks excellent English. The web site does not seem to work but telephone 39 041 736845 or FAX 39 041 36895 to get exact directions or more information. This establishment seemed to have a wider selection of quality products compared to the other shops in Murano.
There are concerts offered nightly. Venice is the birthplace and home of the composer Antonio Vivaldi. The concerts devoted to his music as well as other composers of that era. The concerts are held in intimate surroundings, so seating is limited. Check for information about time and place upon of your arrival in Venice.
There is so much to see in Venice and the guidebooks are full of descriptions. Don’t try to see it all. Relax on the Vaporetti and just absorb your surroundings and the people. That is what you will remember.
Time to leave Venice and move on to Verona.
Verona
Our luggage was returned by water freight to the Hertz Rental Office. At our next Villa, we decided that two cars would offer greater flexibility for each couple.
On the way to Verona we stopped to view the Villas designed Andrea Palladio for 16th century Venetians that acquired rural estates. His style of architecture still inspires architecture today and is a worthwhile tour to consider. The Villa to see among others is the Villa Foscari. A complete description can be found in any book on Palladian Villas
A marvelous seafood restaurant is very near the Villa Foscari. Sorry the web site cannot be accessed but the name is of the restaurant is Ristorante Castagnara.
If you do not plan to drive through the Veneto countryside there is a boat tour along the canal that stops at several of the Villas and includes lunch. Their web site cannot be accessed but inquire about boats that go along the Brentana River and you will experience a pleasant 1 day excursion.
We arrived at the final Villa of our holiday located in the hills of Soave, a region known for Italian white wine and also not too far away the more well known Bardolino vineyards. The Villa is about 100 years old and unlike our 16th century Villa in Tuscany, an effort was made to upgrade and modernize the house. Somehow the modernization caused some of the charm of the house to disappear.
There are 4 bedrooms and a large amount of living space. The space could accommodate 8 people comfortably except for the perennial shortage of hot water. Two families with children would not feel crowded.
There is also a large swimming pool on the spacious property overlooking the valley. Unfortunately, the pretty pool is unheated. We pampered Floridians are used to a pool that is 84 degrees. We sat around the pool, but no swimming at least for us.
The main purpose for this part of the vacation was sentimental. Carol, our travelling companion was to meet her cousins in person after years of correspondence. She became interested in family trees and utilized http://www.ellisislandrecords.org and http://www.familysearch.org a Mormon sponsored web site and through her maternal grandmother’s correspondence found cousins living in the town of Bussolengo, her Grandmother’s birthplace.
The day after we arrived, Bernie and Carol went to meet her relatives, speaking a small of amount of Italian but with an enthusiastic love and desire to meet new found cousins. We stayed behind and enjoyed the small town on top of our hill. Their joyous meeting is a totally other story and made their years of efforts to meet the cousins worthwhile.
We visited Verona, the city of Romeo and Juliette. Cousin Gustavo, the family historian took us on a personal tour. He showed and explained the sites of Verona far better than the guidebook, with my wife Carol at his side translating from Italian. A complete description of the city can be found in any guidebook. I will not review it here.
More significant, Gustavo’s occupation is that of a wine expert. For lunch he took us to a famous local restaurant Bottego de Vino. For those interested in wine, this restaurant is worth the trip to Verona. OK! There are some very worthwhile sites to visit as well.
I mentioned at the beginning of this article, that my wife Carol spent two student years in Milan. On weekends and vacation time she stayed in the town of Montagne located in the foothills of the Dolomites. She has been discussing this place for as long as I have known her.
We departed early to drive past the beautiful Lake Garda and into the hills to visit the village of Binio where Carol said the clouds were below her when she awoke every morning. The roads were the most winding I have ever experienced and we reached our destination before noon.
It was exactly as Carol described. The town of Montagne consists of 3 villages, Cort the lowest, Binio the highest and in the middle Larzana that houses the Church, Market and Trottoria. Her former residence seemed abandoned but the houses around were occupied and exactly as she remembered them.
We then drove down and visited the Church and the adjacent Cemetery. There she found the familiar names of the some of her older friends who were so kind to her during her student years. Although from America, they treated her as family. And sure enough the cemetery had this magnificent vista with the clouds below us.
We had lunch at the local Trattoria. As usual, we were the last diners to finish. When the waitress learned we were from the US, she let the Chef –owner know. He stopped what he was doing and the Chef-owner and the wife- waitress sat down with us and wanted to discuss American politics. It seemed incredible to me that in this isolated village the locals were more aware of US politics than many US citizens. Those few hours in Montagne will give us memories that will last a lifetime.
On one of our last days in the Villa in Soave, we invited 5 cousins over for dinner.
Cousin Gustavo and his wife Marta as well as Cousin Carla and her husband Carlo and their daughter Julia. They arrived at 7 PM, early for Italians. What a wonderful night. The two Carols out did themselves in the kitchen and needless to say the wine was superb.
The conversations were in Italian, English, some French and Spanish and even a few bits of German. When understanding nuance was necessary my wife, Carol was there as interpreter. The evening did not end until 11:30 and they had a long drive home. Another highlight of our trip. What wonderful people. Carol and Bernie are lucky to have found these relatives.
The Trip Home
All good things come to an end and our vacation was no exception. The day trip home was easy. Air France knows how to serve good food and wine with some good chairside movies and a nap to make the 10 hours go by.
Being cut off from the world for over a month was not a problem. Life went on without us. The web site survived without me. Perhaps it even improved. My wife’s Interior Design clients survived.
Remember, I mentioned at the beginning of the Article, we left my daughter Erika in her eighth month of pregnancy with instructions to hold on until we returned. Well 2 days after our return, my Grandson Max, made his appearance. Nona Carol repacked her valise and went off to Chicago to take care of 21 month old Maddy and keep their household running.
There was a song that I heard as a youngster. The lyrics did not mean much then but now it has taken on more significance now. The chorus goes like this:
Enjoy yourself, it’s later than you think Enjoy yourself, while you’re still in the pink
The years go by, as quickly as a wink
Enjoy yourself , enjoy yourself
It's later than you think.
As my 3rd grade school teacher said “ A word to the wise is sufficient”. Submitted for Article publication on http://www.seniordoc.org June 1, 2001
Paul Farkas, M.S.,O.D.,F.A.A.O.
It will be assumed you have already taken a pre-packaged tour of Italy. A planned tour where every thing is planned and supervised is the most cost effective and efficient way to tour Italy for the first time. If this is your first trip to Italy, my alternative may not be for you.
I shall be discussing Northern Italy where I just spent a glorious month. With slight modifications what I discuss could occur in many other locales around the world.
To get the most enjoyment from this type of trip the following recommendations are helpful although not essential. However, if you find that most of these suggestions are impossible for your lifestyle, then a different type of vacation would be suggested.
Physically Fit
I found very few provisions for the disabled, which we take for granted in the US. How fit must you be? Before you couch potatoes consider taking this type of vacation, walking ability is essential. Not speed but endurance.
Converting this to treadmill numbers you should be able to walk 3 miles in 1 hour and walk on an incline of 20 – 45 degrees for at least ½ hour. Visiting small mountain top towns requires climbing steep inclines while leaving your car parked outside of the walls of these old towns at the bottom of the hill.In addition climbing 4 stories daily carrying packages will get you used to carrying your own luggage up the stairs of your romantic 16th century villa. Leonardo di Vinci did not invent elevators.
A Knowledge of Italian
At least enough Italian to read road signs and menus will reduce anxiety. Familiarity with Italian numbers is also helpful, although the Italians graciously show you the cash register slip and take the Lira bills and the change from your hand honestly and with good humor. If Italian is impossible then Spanish or French can be of help. English is spoken in the tourist areas but this vacation will take you where the tourists go infrequently.
Dietary Restrictions
The Italians plan, discuss, shop and spend an enormous portion of each day around a dining table. Shopping in the markets will be an experience in food freshness and quality.
The fish is caught that day and the meats have flavor because there is some fat (a dirty word in the US diet) left on the meat. Eggs have the yellowest yolks ( yes the Italians eat the yolks as well as the egg whites) with the best flavor I have ever tasted. If your diet permits, without compromising your physical or psychological health, eat during your vacations like an Italian.
Forget about Low Calorie, Low Fat, Low Carbohydrates, sugar free, egg yolk free, and salt restricted, no red meat or a vegetarian diet. I guarantee good health, if you spend the 2-hour lunch and 2 hour dinner eating smaller quantities of the greatest varieties of the tastiest meats, fish and chicken; freshest fruits; vegetables; cheese; freshly prepared pasta made with eggs; the best olive oil and balsamic vinegar and most important local Italian wine and carbonated water with each meal.
Eat like the Italians in Northern Italy and you will not think of taking any of the US advertised upset stomach and indigestion remedies during your entire stay.
If you walk enough and climb stairs like the locals, you will not gain weight during your vacation. Northern Italian men and women whom I noticed walking in the streets, are far thinner than their American counterparts who drive rather than walk and then snack on junk food at the mall.
Time
This vacation cannot be accomplished in a short period of time. I took 1 month but there is nothing written that you cannot do it in 3 weeks. You must leave enough time to get over the jet lag that is inevitable unless you are a sound sleeper on airplanes.
The best time to visit Tuscany and the Veneto area of Italy is April 15 to May 31 and September 15 to October 31. You avoid vacationing tourists and the temperature is perfect. A word of caution. In May, Italian schoolchildren visit the various tourist sites as well as do the Italian tourists on weekends. To avoid crowds visit the Art Galleries and major churches early before the tour buses arrive.
In addition it takes time to get into the rhythm of the Italian life style of the smaller cities and towns. Stores open at 7:30 am and close for lunch at 12:30 PM and reopen at 4: 00 PM and close at 7:30 PM. The eating places are the only establishments that you will find open during these afternoon hours. At 8:00PM the eating places become busy. You will find yourself dining alone (unless there are some stray Americans) at 7:00PM.
So leave your idea of the “early bird special” back in the US. Dinner does not end until 10PM and many nights it is bedtime by 11:00 PM. Going to bed on a full stomach has no ill effect. Amazing!!
Notice I have not yet discussed one work of art or religious site to visit. There are travel guides for that. This article will offer a different type of tour.
Money
Private or Villa housing will be far less expensive than staying in equivalent hotels. You will be shopping locally and eating at home more than if you were at a hotel. However, you need an adequate amount of money as a reserve since you will eat out at least one meal per day. Because of the strong dollar full meals with wine at the fine local (non-tourist) restaurants will be under $30 for two all-inclusive.
You need the extra money for the incredible values when you purchase Italian products in Italy. You will not be able to resist purchasing the fine products such as Olive Oil, Aged Balsamic Vinegar, Porcini Mushrooms, Linens, Tableware and Glassware, if you enjoy entertaining at home with dinner parties. Home furnishings, clothing and leather goods are a must if you are a shopper.
Take a small amount of cash with you and the absolute minimum amount of Travelers Checks. You are charged for the exchange from traveler’s checks to Lira and will get a poor exchange rate. Instead use your ATM card. There are International Bankomats in every larger city and airports that will give you up to 500,000 Lira, that is slightly under $250 at today's exchange rate. The larger shops and restaurants accept credit cards. You will need Lira for the smaller shops and local eateries. Just be certain to leave a solid balance in the account that supplies your ATM card. You will need it.
Inner Resources
Renting an Apartment in a city or a Villa in the country comes with minimum entertainment. A TV and an antiquated sound system may be supplied. The programs are in Italian except if there is a satellite dish or cable in which case you may get CNN international. I
f you enjoy old reruns of sitcoms or watching inane quiz shows in Italian, then you will be happy with Italian TV. If not bring lots of books to read. If you run out of reading material it is difficult to get English books or newspapers in the local bookstores. Reading at night also proves to be difficult for us presbyopes who require a strong light source. Old structures are usually not well wired and with high-energy costs, lighting is not a top priority. The “Itty-bitty booklight” with batteries may be a good alternative.
A word about the cost of Italian Energy. It is very expensive so Italians have learned how to conserve. Before our political leaders begin an environmentally questionable approach they should visit Italy and live like a middle class Italian. Italians, for decades, have had to cope with high-energy costs that would create an enormous outcry in the US. If Americans could copy, in even a small measure, how the Italians coped to compensate for the high cost of energy there would be no perceived “Energy Crisis”.
Let the US policy makers move into a middle class apartment in any Northern Italian City and not into a 5 star hotel and being driven about in large limousines like a celebrities. This is what they will learn:
1.European automobiles are small and fuel-efficient. We had a real energy crisis in the 1970s, that our seniordocs will recall. Remember those long lines to get gas and the enormous increase in the energy prices leading to massive inflation? Automobiles in less than a decade became smaller and fuel-efficient.
I went from driving a Thunderbird at 8 miles to a gallon to a Toyota getting 25 miles to a gallon. If the politicians had the political will and courage, they would give a fuel tax credit for efficient new hybrid autos and place a heavy tax on large cars and pleasure boats that consume more than their fair share of gasoline. This tax would be reserved for research on safe renewable alternative energy sources such as wind and solar energy and serious investment in Public Transportation.
2. The Italian cities I visited and I’m certain it is true around Europe, have a clean, efficient and safe public transportation system. Subsidies are given so that fares are low enough that it makes sense to leave your car home. The trains and buses arrive frequently so there are no inconvenient scheduling problems.
3. Italians set their thermostats for cooler house temperatures in the winter and warmer temperatures in the summer, than we are used to in the US. Remember during the 1970s energy crisis President Jimmie Carter wearing a cardigan due to cooler temperatures being maintained at the White House during the winter months, as an example to encourage fuel conservation? It became the right thing to do.
4. Hot water is a luxury for the middle class Italian. Short showers are a must or else it is a cold shower. This was true in every home I rented in both Apartments and Villas. I must therefore assume, it is true for most middle class Italians, as a fact of “energy conservation” life to use hot water sparingly.
5.Italian property owners place timers on lights in public hallways and bathroom facilities that automatically shut off after a short amount of time. I would love to see one of our slow moving, political decision makers on a fact finding tour, getting stuck in the “Bagno” when the lights go out and no idea where the switch is located to turn it back on.
As long as we are on the subject of bathrooms, in Italy bathrooms are works of art…. No two are alike. When entering you are well advised to do a rapid survey of how the present one varies and most important of all, the light switch location if your time is up. The Northern Italian Bathrooms as with all shops and restaurants are immaculate. Every thing sparkles but you are well advised to bring your own supplies since the Public Facilities sometimes lack these essentials.
If all the above disclaimers have not discouraged you, it is time to begin my holiday description.
Florence
I took an overnight Air France flight, Miami to Paris connecting to Florence. It was an excellent flight where because of the added comfort of Business class, I was able to get several hours of uninterrupted sleep. If your finances or frequent flyer miles can afford it, upgrade from economy.
You will avoid long check in lines, have a comfortable lounge with refreshments to await your departure. On board food is edible but most important the seats allow you to rest comfortably. No guarantee, but the cabin might be quieter because the crying children are usually flying economy. I love kids but not on airplanes. (I hope my daughter who flies with my grandchildren doesn’t read this).
My wife Carol, who together with two old friends, with whom we shared the Apartment and Villas arranged the entire month, met me in Florence. In the interest of full disclosure I have a confession.
I was not involved in any of the planning or housing arrangements. Prior to my wife leaving for Florence two weeks ahead of me she handed me my airline tickets and passport and said “I’ll meet you in Florence in two weeks”.
Carol loves Italy. She studied design in Milan during her college years. As a result she is almost fluent in Italian. She took off two weeks ahead of me to take an Art and Florentine-cooking course. After many years of marriage, she understands my time limit visiting an Art Museum or Religious Site is two hours. About the same as sitting in a C/E course. As a result, she went ahead to view the incredible art of Florence without worrying about my interest level. I take courses to better understand Art and Art History but I have a hard time. Classical music is much easier for me.
When Carol suggested a long holiday in Italy last year, my immediate reaction was negative. I have spent a good portion of my career in Optometry doing C/E in some very isolated places. I always suspected the other speakers got the cities easier to reach. The thought of flying that involves delays and sitting in terminals did not excite me.
She was insistent, indicating I now have the time and she is willing to take six weeks off from an extremely active interior design practice to take this trip, while we are both in great physical shape. She even told the South Florida Chapter of the American Society for Interior Design, where she is now past president, that the organization will have to do with out her. She exclaimed to my daughter, Erika who was going into her eighth month of pregnancy when she left, “Don’t you dare give birth until I return”.
She was so excited about having a leisurely trip, I could not say no. Our last trip to Florence in October 1998 was quite hectic. My daughter announced that she was getting married and did not want an elaborate wedding, so she could save me money. How would she accomplish this? Get married in Italy since Carol and I would be there so it could be accomplished with minimum of fanfare.
This money saving, minimum fanfare wedding was not as simple as we thought. They were married in a formal ceremony in the town City Hall of Florence, which is the Palazzo Vecchio, a magnificent palace in the grandest Salon I have ever seen, by the Mayor of Florence. The whole story requires another article. Save me money…. Ha!
In any event we decided this vacation would not be rushed or interrupted hence her decision to which I agreed to rent Apartments and Villas.
Every thing was arranged through two websites, http://www.theparkercompany.com and http://www.travel-italy.com .You may get more information about apartments and villas through these agencies. The entire trip was made without the assistance of travel agents.
The taxi took us to our apartment building in the Old Part of Florence. We went into a dark hallway in a very old building. She found the light switch and led me to a tiny elevator with enough room for one valise and me. We had the 5th floor apartment. The elevator only went up the 4th floor so I had to drag this heavy valise an additional floor. Because of extremely high ceilings in old buildings, a floor is equal to a floor and a half. Remember my comment about being in shape. A wonderful view of the city from a terrace where we sat and watched the sunset over the city made the effort worthwhile. To see the sights and hear the church bells chiming simultaneously are a special memory.
To enjoy the art treasures of Florence you must go early and purchase tickets in advance. For information, E-mail Carlotta @ pazzagli.com or the web site http://www.initaly.com.
Our friend Carol took care of this and it was really worth the effort. We walked to the front of a 2-block line at the Accademia at 9 am The cassette walking tour of the Accademia, where the David and some of the other works of Michelangelo are housed, is a help to appreciate and understand his genius. These cassette guides where available in English, are an important compliment to the guidebooks that are a must to keep you on track.
To really get the most out of the art of Florence, my wife hired an American who married a local and has a Ph.D. in Renaissance Art History. She gave us a marvelous three-hour seminar and tour that brought the art to life. I even understood every thing she said without getting bored. To reach Dr.Margaret Ann Zaho her E mail is emzaho@hotmail.com.
Another highlight was the visit to the market in Florence and sampling the wonderful foods of Italy. This requires some language skill since the market is meant for Florentines and the trades people are less patient with curiosity seekers. As a general rule, don’t handle the produce- the vendor will invite you to do so and will let you taste a sample if you are ready to make a purchase.
If you wish to send the marvelous olive oil, aged balsamic vinegar or porcini mushrooms home, they will be packed and the mushrooms vacuumed sealed to get through US customs. The merchants will take the time to give you all necessary information. Most merchants, who sell these pricier products in the market will ship the products home for you at a very reasonable price, compared to what these products, if they were available, would cost in the US. Memories fade but the flavor of the foods that arrive from Italy, on your return will bring you back to your holiday for an extended period of time
If you are uncomfortable going to the Market yourself, a one-day cooking course is available where you be taken shopping for food to prepare as part of the course. An American who married a Florentine offers it. Her web site http://www.divinacucina.com.
After Market shopping it is time for lunch. Diagonally opposite the market there is Trattoria Mario’s. Arrive before 12 noon or there will be a line out the door.
Only Italian is spoken and you may be asked to share a table- it’s the norm here. If you cannot easily communicate, just sit back and let them feed you with their fresh specials of the day. It will be Florentine cuisine and some of the best food you have ever tasted at the lowest price you can imagine.
We met people from Bologna who make it a special stop when they are in Florence. Don’t miss it!
Most Trattorias are excellent and well priced. If you want a pricier place for one night of typical excellent Florentine dining, try Osteria Numero Uno. Sorry no address.
A novel to read about a woman coming of age in Florence that will give you the feel of the city is “The Sixteen Pleasures“ by Robert Helenga, Dell Publishing. It will also discuss the great flood of 1966 where much of Florence was underwater and the treasures were at risk. That is another interesting story beyond the scope of this article.
For more information about Florence the most useful guidebook can be found at www.dk.com . This is part of the Eyewitness series of guidebooks.
Time to meet our travelling companions.
We met Carol and Bernie at Florence Airport after a flight from New York to Paris connecting to Florence. There is an increased likelihood that luggage can be delayed with a connecting flight. For this reason, not only should you carry valuables and essentials on board but when packing, cross pack in each other’s suitcase. In the event one is delayed you have a change of clothing until your luggage catches up. One of their suitcases was delayed.
Spending weeks with another couple is quite different than an occasional social evening. You should know them very well. The two Carols were friends since grade school and I have known Bernie for about 40 years. We understood one another’s idiosyncrasies.
I know I can be quite annoying to individuals who are slow morning starters. I am an extremely early riser. This is not a problem at home since I have things to occupy me until the rest of world wakes up. On the other hand my body begins shutting down by 8PM and I become as quiet as an undiscovered tomb by 10PM. The night owls are ready for activities and I am ready to go to sleep. There is a reason my wife calls me “Mr.Excitement”.
Since social life begins at 8PM in Italy, I had no choice but to take an afternoon nap. If Bernie and Carol wanted to sleep later, we went our separate ways until we could meet up at mutually convenient times. We were fortunate that Bernie could get by in Italian since he was translator by profession specializing in Spanish and French. His wife, Carol understood some Italian since her mother’s mother spoke to her in Italian as a child. One of her goals on this trip was to meet her cousins on her grandmother’s side for the very first time. More about that later.
Cortona in Tuscany
We collected the delayed luggage at the airport and proceeded to pick up our car rental. We requested a single large car to hold our entire luggage and the four of us. The Mercedes wagon we were promised did not materialize so we had what at best would be considered a mid size by US standards.
We could barely squeeze in our belongings but with map in hand; we were on our way to Cortona, less than two hours away if you don’t get lost. But getting lost is easy. Road signs are far smaller than in the US. Italian drivers have little patience for people who seem to be wandering and specialize in tailgating which causes you to increase speed and miss the turn off, because the sign was too small to give you enough time to maneuver.
There are remarkably few accidents, when compared to our rate of accidents in Florida. I saw few elderly drivers on the road. Perhaps that accounts for the lower than expected accident rate for aggressive drivers.
We arrived late in the afternoon. Up a long driveway to a large 16th century Villa. It was exactly as you would expect a Villa of that era to appear. Resting on top the hill it overlooked a magnificent valley of Tuscany.
The present owner, who was the heir to the estate, divided the Villa up into several apartments. The family dates back to the 15th century and is one if the leading families of Cortona. Unfortunately, the economics involved in maintaining the property obliged the owner to make the house income producing. Since Tuscany is one of the most popular spots in Italy, renting for the season is fairly simple.
We occupied the 3rd and 4th floor. Because of the ceiling height, it is more like the 5th and 6th floor. There was no one to help with luggage. At last my weight training at Gold’s Gym was going to pay off. But lifting weights in a gym is not like dragging heavy suitcases up the steps .
We survived and after inspecting the residence it was evident the people in the 16th century were not as concerned about bathrooms and up to date kitchens. We made do and shopped in town for supplies.
Dinner that night consisted of hor d’oeuvres and lots of wine while in our upper floor living room watching the sun set over our beautiful Tuscan Valley.
A stay in Tuscany will allow you to visit lovely mountain top towns including Cortona, San Gimignano, and Assisi. These towns are favorite tourist sites and should be visited early before the buses arrive and you move out into a quiet Trattoria by 12:30PM.
A worthwhile out of the way trip is to the Chianti Region. Route S 408 from Siena takes you to various vineyards. Explore, get lost and you will come across Montecino. A small village with a winery and that has been inhabited in the same houses for over 1000 years.
If the local Tratteria is closed it is a short trip to Grieve which has a lovely square and several fine places to take your mid day meal. When purchasing Chianti to take back to your Villa look for the Black Rooster on the neck of the bottle. It is a sign of quality and all years since 1992 have been good but 1997 was outstanding. Look for it. It is inexpensive, under $10 a bottle, in the Chianti Region.
If you run short of time avoid Perugia but do not miss Deruta where Majolica, artistic earthenware is produced. There are many shops and few tourists and you can purchase magnificent dishes and kitchenware at a fraction of the cost back in the US. Sorry to report no web site or E-mail address. Time to move on to Venice.
Venice
Venice has no cars. Did you ever wonder what you do with your rented car and how on earth you will get your luggage to the apartment? We thought about it too as we pulled our car back into the outside perimeter of Venice to the Hertz Rental. We could not ask Hertz, because the rental agency was closed and we were instructed to leave the key.
At the entrance to the garage, we found porters who took our luggage and up to 2 passengers on a freight boat up the Grand Canal to our stop. If no porters are available you can carry your luggage to a nearby water Taxi who will drop you off fairly near your home.
Our duplex apartment was one block off the Grand Canal located in a lovely square. The Agent was waiting for us as arranged, but did not speak a word of English. If we did not an Italian speaker with us, we would have been in deep trouble. I suppose she could have shown us around and used sign language.
The apartment was located in a very old building that was totally redone. A stark contrast to our villa where everything was primitive, this apartment had beautiful furnishings, modern kitchen and quality just like home. There was air-conditioning if needed as well as enough electric lights so that reading at night was a possibility. Whatever the electric and gas bill came to it was worth it.
For those who have never visited Venice, the city is magical and it is my wife’s favorite place to visit. You get around by foot or the public boat transportation called a Vaporetto. A weekly ticket is just a few dollars and this boat takes you to every part of Venice and the outer islands. Of course you must transfer and understand the system but the ticket and boat people are very helpful.
The worse thing that can happen is you will get lost and end up having an interesting boat ride around Venice. For special trips to the airport, if you wish to splurge you can take private water Taxi. A romantic gondola ride into the smaller canals is something you should experience. This is best done at night when the day tourists have vanished and the Grand Canal is calm. Expensive but how often are you in Venice?
The first night we decided to go out to dinner. The moon was full, the evening air balmy. We selected a restaurant near our apartment along the Grand Canal. There were four of us so we could not sit directly by the Canal. That was reserved for the romantic parties of two.
I looked at these hopefuls. A young couple finds waiting for that spark ready to ignite. A little more Champagne and a moon rising higher and the explosion. A middle aged couple trying to keep the embers burning and hoping Venice, the Grand Canal and a full moon would be the added needed fuel. And finally an older couple hoping the last cooling embers in their relationship could be reignited by this magical city. All was in place as the tide rose slowly and eventually these couples were ankles deep in water. Through it all they never seemed to notice. That’s Venetian romance.
The next day we took a walk over to the market. Venetian cuisine is top heavy with seafood. For you fish haters give it a second chance. The Fish Market is about 3 blocks square. The fish were caught that morning and remarkably there is no fish smell in the entire market. Some of the fish from the Adriatic look scary but oh the taste!
As long as we are on my favorite subject food, look for small Trattorias away from the Grand Canal. The tourist eateries with menus in English, French and German are overpriced. The out of the way Trattorias will be reasonable but more expensive than in those in the countryside.
Housing in the Grand Hotels such as the Cipriani or Danielle are way out of line for what you receive. Renting an apartment for a week with another couple is the way to go. The money saved in housing can be spent on the products Venice has to offer.
Treat yourself to one night of the best dining anywhere in the world (“Food and Wine” voted them one of the 10 best) and not incredibly expensive for what you receive, (dinner for 2 with wine $100). The Restaurant is called Da Fiore FAX 041 721343. Reservations are limited so call months in advance to assure a table. There is only one seating a night so the table is yours. Watching the waiters work is like viewing a Ballet. It is well worth the visit and the seafood is unforgettable.
A visit to San Marco and the Doge’s Palace are a must but an early arrival is essential because the crowds even during the off season are overbearing. Get more information from your guidebooks. As mentioned before the best single book to carry, is found at http://www.dk.com.
A wonderful one-day trip using your pre-purchased Vaporetti tickets is a 90-minute boat ride to Torcello that leaves from the San Marco stop among other places. Leave by 10 am and arrrive in Torcello by 11:30 am and tour the 5th – 6th Century church, Santa Fosco which has unusual Byzantine mosaics and some archeological sites dating back to the Romans and Attila the Hun.
A lunch in the garden of Osteria Ponte Del Diavolo is a memorable experience. Dine at your new found leisurely pace but be aware of the boat schedule because this larger boat runs less frequently.
Take the boat back to nearby Burano and treat yourself to some of the most beautiful lace handwork in the world. At the prices offered, you will buy tablecloths and napkins that will be the pride of your dinner table. Don’t miss this out of the way treasure. Because it appeals to tourism, the shops do not close, for the most part,between 12:30 and 4 PM. You can be assured the convenience of open shops after your wonderful lunch.
If time permits after Burano, you may have time to stop off at Murano to view and purchase the world famous Venetian glass and crystal. If you are a serious purchaser, then I suggest another ½ day devoted to this pleasurable experience. Murano is a 15-minute boat ride from San Marco stop.
Murano is more crowded with tourist oriented establishments, so it takes some effort to separate the quality from the ordinary. The place we purchased crystal is called Lineamazzuocato. The owner speaks excellent English. The web site does not seem to work but telephone 39 041 736845 or FAX 39 041 36895 to get exact directions or more information. This establishment seemed to have a wider selection of quality products compared to the other shops in Murano.
There are concerts offered nightly. Venice is the birthplace and home of the composer Antonio Vivaldi. The concerts devoted to his music as well as other composers of that era. The concerts are held in intimate surroundings, so seating is limited. Check for information about time and place upon of your arrival in Venice.
There is so much to see in Venice and the guidebooks are full of descriptions. Don’t try to see it all. Relax on the Vaporetti and just absorb your surroundings and the people. That is what you will remember.
Time to leave Venice and move on to Verona.
Verona
Our luggage was returned by water freight to the Hertz Rental Office. At our next Villa, we decided that two cars would offer greater flexibility for each couple.
On the way to Verona we stopped to view the Villas designed Andrea Palladio for 16th century Venetians that acquired rural estates. His style of architecture still inspires architecture today and is a worthwhile tour to consider. The Villa to see among others is the Villa Foscari. A complete description can be found in any book on Palladian Villas
A marvelous seafood restaurant is very near the Villa Foscari. Sorry the web site cannot be accessed but the name is of the restaurant is Ristorante Castagnara.
If you do not plan to drive through the Veneto countryside there is a boat tour along the canal that stops at several of the Villas and includes lunch. Their web site cannot be accessed but inquire about boats that go along the Brentana River and you will experience a pleasant 1 day excursion.
We arrived at the final Villa of our holiday located in the hills of Soave, a region known for Italian white wine and also not too far away the more well known Bardolino vineyards. The Villa is about 100 years old and unlike our 16th century Villa in Tuscany, an effort was made to upgrade and modernize the house. Somehow the modernization caused some of the charm of the house to disappear.
There are 4 bedrooms and a large amount of living space. The space could accommodate 8 people comfortably except for the perennial shortage of hot water. Two families with children would not feel crowded.
There is also a large swimming pool on the spacious property overlooking the valley. Unfortunately, the pretty pool is unheated. We pampered Floridians are used to a pool that is 84 degrees. We sat around the pool, but no swimming at least for us.
The main purpose for this part of the vacation was sentimental. Carol, our travelling companion was to meet her cousins in person after years of correspondence. She became interested in family trees and utilized http://www.ellisislandrecords.org and http://www.familysearch.org a Mormon sponsored web site and through her maternal grandmother’s correspondence found cousins living in the town of Bussolengo, her Grandmother’s birthplace.
The day after we arrived, Bernie and Carol went to meet her relatives, speaking a small of amount of Italian but with an enthusiastic love and desire to meet new found cousins. We stayed behind and enjoyed the small town on top of our hill. Their joyous meeting is a totally other story and made their years of efforts to meet the cousins worthwhile.
We visited Verona, the city of Romeo and Juliette. Cousin Gustavo, the family historian took us on a personal tour. He showed and explained the sites of Verona far better than the guidebook, with my wife Carol at his side translating from Italian. A complete description of the city can be found in any guidebook. I will not review it here.
More significant, Gustavo’s occupation is that of a wine expert. For lunch he took us to a famous local restaurant Bottego de Vino. For those interested in wine, this restaurant is worth the trip to Verona. OK! There are some very worthwhile sites to visit as well.
I mentioned at the beginning of this article, that my wife Carol spent two student years in Milan. On weekends and vacation time she stayed in the town of Montagne located in the foothills of the Dolomites. She has been discussing this place for as long as I have known her.
We departed early to drive past the beautiful Lake Garda and into the hills to visit the village of Binio where Carol said the clouds were below her when she awoke every morning. The roads were the most winding I have ever experienced and we reached our destination before noon.
It was exactly as Carol described. The town of Montagne consists of 3 villages, Cort the lowest, Binio the highest and in the middle Larzana that houses the Church, Market and Trottoria. Her former residence seemed abandoned but the houses around were occupied and exactly as she remembered them.
We then drove down and visited the Church and the adjacent Cemetery. There she found the familiar names of the some of her older friends who were so kind to her during her student years. Although from America, they treated her as family. And sure enough the cemetery had this magnificent vista with the clouds below us.
We had lunch at the local Trattoria. As usual, we were the last diners to finish. When the waitress learned we were from the US, she let the Chef –owner know. He stopped what he was doing and the Chef-owner and the wife- waitress sat down with us and wanted to discuss American politics. It seemed incredible to me that in this isolated village the locals were more aware of US politics than many US citizens. Those few hours in Montagne will give us memories that will last a lifetime.
On one of our last days in the Villa in Soave, we invited 5 cousins over for dinner.
Cousin Gustavo and his wife Marta as well as Cousin Carla and her husband Carlo and their daughter Julia. They arrived at 7 PM, early for Italians. What a wonderful night. The two Carols out did themselves in the kitchen and needless to say the wine was superb.
The conversations were in Italian, English, some French and Spanish and even a few bits of German. When understanding nuance was necessary my wife, Carol was there as interpreter. The evening did not end until 11:30 and they had a long drive home. Another highlight of our trip. What wonderful people. Carol and Bernie are lucky to have found these relatives.
The Trip Home
All good things come to an end and our vacation was no exception. The day trip home was easy. Air France knows how to serve good food and wine with some good chairside movies and a nap to make the 10 hours go by.
Being cut off from the world for over a month was not a problem. Life went on without us. The web site survived without me. Perhaps it even improved. My wife’s Interior Design clients survived.
Remember, I mentioned at the beginning of the Article, we left my daughter Erika in her eighth month of pregnancy with instructions to hold on until we returned. Well 2 days after our return, my Grandson Max, made his appearance. Nona Carol repacked her valise and went off to Chicago to take care of 21 month old Maddy and keep their household running.
There was a song that I heard as a youngster. The lyrics did not mean much then but now it has taken on more significance now. The chorus goes like this:
Enjoy yourself, it’s later than you think Enjoy yourself, while you’re still in the pink
The years go by, as quickly as a wink
Enjoy yourself , enjoy yourself
It's later than you think.
As my 3rd grade school teacher said “ A word to the wise is sufficient”. Submitted for Article publication on http://www.seniordoc.org June 1, 2001
Paul Farkas, M.S.,O.D.,F.A.A.O.
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